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Attivi pelle sensibile
4 minutes

9 Active Ingredients Your Sensitive Skin Will Absolutely Love

Articolo curato dal team scientifico di Skin First, guidato dalla Dott.ssa Maria Pia Priore, farmacista, cosmetologa, founder di Skin First.

If your skin reddens at the slightest thing or feels tight just from being exposed to the wind, you already know how complicated it can be to choose the right products.The good news? There are active ingredients designed exactly for this: to soothe, protect, and calm even the most sensitive reactive skin.Here you’ll find 9 ingredients that make a difference, explained in a simple, clear way backed by science. Few, effective, and zero stress.

Ectoine

WHAT IT IS: a natural molecule discovered in microorganisms that survive in extreme environments.
PERCHIS IS USEFUL: Protects the skin from environmental stressors such as temperature fluctuations, UV rays, and pollution.
HOW IT WORKS: forms a “hydrating shield” that stabilizes the cells and reduces water loss.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: helps the skin maintain more stable hydration and tolerance even in harsh external conditions.

Present in the Cica Barrier® Face Cream.

Beta-Glucan

WHAT IT IS: a natural sugar found in oats, mushrooms, and yeast.
WHY IT’S USEFUL: soothes, hydrates, and strengthens the skin barrier.
HOW IT WORKS: creates a protective film, modulates the inflammatory response, and limits dehydration.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: alleviates itching and tightness, leaving the skin calmer and more protected.

Present in the Calming Booster.

Lactobionic Acid (PHA)

WHAT IT IS: exfoliant from the polyhydroxy acid family, much gentler than classic AHAs.
WHY IT'S USEFUL: exfoliates without irritating and helps retain moisture.
HOW IT WORKS: removes dead skin cells and acts as an antioxidant, improving the skin's texture.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: alleviates itching and tightness, leaving the skin calmer and more protected.

 

Present in theSensitive Skin Exfoliator.

Neutrazen™ (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8)

WHAT IT IS: a biomimetic peptide designed for hyper-reactive skin.
WHY IT'S USEFUL: acts on the cutaneous nerve endings, often hypersensitive in sensitive skin, which intensify stinging, burning, and redness even in response to minimal stimuli.
HOW IT WORKS: modulates nerve signals and lowers the threshold of neurogenic reactivity.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: helps calm sudden flare-ups and keep skin more stable over time.

 

Present in the Cica Barrier® Face Cream.

Sensityl™ (Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract)

WHAT IT IS: a biotechnological extract derived from marine microalgae.
WHY IT'S USEFUL: helps rebalance the skin microbiota and reduce sensory inflammation.
HOW IT WORKS: modulates pain receptors and lowers mediators such as IL-8.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: uniforms the complexion, reduces redness, and makes the skin less prone to fluctuations.

 

Present in theSensitive Skin Exfoliator.

Madecassoside

WHAT IT IS: a plant-based active ingredient extracted from Centella asiatica.
WHY IT'S USEFUL: has soothing, antioxidant properties and stimulates repair.
HOW IT WORKS: reduces free radicals, soothes inflammation, and promotes collagen synthesis.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: makes the skin more elastic, less reactive, and visibly calmer.

 

Present in the Cica Barrier® Face Cream.

Ceramides

WHAT IT IS: essential lipids that make up the skin’s protective barrier.
WHY IT'S USEFUL: when they are lacking, the skin loses water and becomes more vulnerable.
HOW IT WORKS: rebuild the barrier, improving firmness and hydration.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: they restore strength to the skin, reduce dryness, and increase tolerance to active ingredients.

 

Present in the Cica Barrier® Face Cream.

SymRepair® 100

WHAT IT IS: a blend of biomimetic lipids that mimic those naturally present in the skin.
WHY IT'S USEFUL: helps repair the damaged stratum corneum.
HOW IT WORKS: strengthens the barrier and reduces water leakage to the outside.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: increases resistance to external agents and keeps the skin more hydrated and protected.

 

Present in Soothing Booster.

Colloidal Oatmeal

WHAT IT IS: finely micronized oat, rich in beta-glucans and natural soothing actives.
WHY IT'S USEFUL: it has a long history of use in dermatological treatments for reactive skin.
HOW IT WORKS: modulates inflammation and creates a soothing protective film.
WHAT IT DOES ON THE SKIN: reduces redness, stinging, and burning, providing immediate relief.

 

Present in the Cica Barrier® Face Cream.

⚠️ Active ingredients to use with caution

Even some “good” ingredients can be too harsh for sensitive skin, especially in high concentrations:

  • Retinoids
  • Strong AHAs (e.g. glycolic >10%)
  • Denatured alcohol

Better to introduce them gradually and only if they are well tolerated.

Expert opinion

"When we talk about sensitive skin, the rule is to choose a few targeted actives. It's better to focus on ingredients that hydrate, soothe, and strengthen the barrier, rather than layering too many products without a clear purpose."

Avatar
Maria Pia Priore
Founder di SKIN FIRST®, farmacista e cosmetologa

Scientific sources

1. Draelos, Z.D. (2018). The role of ceramides in barrier function of aging skin. - Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 11(9), 21–24.

2. Kim, H.J., Kim, S.R., & Choi, Y.S. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effect of beta-glucan in human keratinocytes via regulation of NF-κB signaling. - International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 37(2), 393–400.

3. Kuehne, A., et al. (2020). Ectoine in dermatology: a promising active for barrier support. - Dermatology and Therapy, 10(5), 1099–1110.

4. Kang, M.C., et al. (2019). Madecassoside suppresses UV-induced damage and inflammation in human skin cells. - Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 35(3), 163–171.

5. Lodén, M. (2003). The clinical benefit of colloidal oatmeal lotion in dermatology. - Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2(2), 131–135.

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