Blackheads on your face? Don't pop them. Here's the skincare that really makes a difference.

Have you ever leaned in close to a mirror, maybe under bright light, and noticed those blackheads on your nose, chin, or forehead? We all get them at some point in our lives. And often, once you spot them, the same temptation arises: to squeeze them. The truth is, that doesn’t work—on the contrary, it often makes things worse. Here, we’ll show you how to remove blackheads from your nose, chin, and other areas of the face using the right skincare routine.

What blackheads are (and why they form)

The scientific term for blackheads is open comedones. They are pores clogged by a buildup of sebum and dead skin cells which, when exposed to air, oxidize and take on that characteristic dark color. It is oxidation that gives them their color: it is not dirt, even though that is a common belief. There are also blackheads under the skin, which are not actually "black" yet: they are closed comedones, covered by horny cells, not in contact with the air, and therefore not oxidized. The difference between visible blackheads and blackheads under the skin is precisely exposure to air.

They mainly form in the so-called T-zone (nose, chin, forehead), where the sebaceous glands are more numerous. The main reason blackheads form on the skin is testosterone levels, which stimulate sebum production. This is why blackheads often appear during adolescence, but they can also stay with us into adulthood. Other contributing factors include genetic predisposition, stress, pollution, exposure to UV rays, and comedogenic cosmetic products.

The combination of oily skin and blackheads is the most common, but this also affects combination skin, and less frequently dry skin: people with dry skin and blackheads do exist, and it is usually dehydrated skin that produces sebum as a reaction, or skin with a genetic predisposition to comedones in the T-zone.

Does popping blackheads work? The uncomfortable truth

We get it: the temptation to squeeze a blackhead is universal, and for many people it’s also quite satisfying. But the advice is not to do it, and for good reason.

Squeezing at home means putting pressure on a clogged pore without knowing how to do it properly. The risk is pushing the contents inward instead of getting them out, causing inflammation that wasn’t there before. It can lead to micro-injuries that cause post-inflammatory marks, and in the worst cases, small scars. Often, the blackhead doesn’t disappear: it turns into something more serious.

There’s also another thing: even when it seems like you’ve removed it, the pore is still there. If the cause (excess sebum, dead skin cells not removed, wrong habits) doesn’t change, the blackhead reforms in the same spot within a few days.

💡 Skin First Tip If you really can’t resist, the least harmful thing is to have it done by a beautician experienced in extractions, never at home with your fingers or improvised tools. And never on an inflamed or reddened blackhead: in that case, leave it alone and treat the area with a targeted gel.

Same goes for nose strips and DIY manual extractors: they seem like a quick fix, but the strips' harsh adhesive can irritate the skin and disrupt the skin barrier, while at-home extractors, without experience, do more harm than good. Meanwhile, the blackhead reforms within a few days because the underlying cause remains.

How to prevent blackheads

Prevention matters more than treatment, and it works on three fronts.

1. A targeted cleansing, twice a day. Cleansing is the first step against blackheads because it removes excess sebum, make-up residue, and impurities that would otherwise remain in the pores. For those with blemish-prone, oily, or combination skin, the Purifying Cleansing Mousse is formulated with 2% Salicylic Acid and Polylysine, a prebiotic that helps counter the proliferation of the bacteria responsible for pimples and blemishes. In the evening, if you have worn makeup or SPF, it should be paired with double cleansing using theOil-to-Milk Cleansing Makeup Remover Oil.

2. Chemical exfoliation, two or three times a week. It’s the step that makes the biggest difference for blackheads. Thechemical exfoliation with salicylic acid removes dead skin cells accumulated in the pores and helps prevent the formation of new comedones. Below, we go into detail about the active ingredients and products.

3. A face cream suitable for your skin type. The wrong cream can make blackheads worse instead of preventing them. A cream that is too rich for blemish-prone skin creates an occlusive film that clogs the pores. Better to opt for lightweight, fast-absorbing formulas. For those with skin with pimples and active blackheads, the Purifying Face Cream is the best choice: it has a lightweight texture and sebum-regulating active ingredients. If, on the other hand, you have blackheads but no active breakouts, and you're looking for light hydration that also helps prevent the first signs of aging, you can choose the Preventive Face Cream, formulated with Hyaluronic Acid and peptides, and still fast-absorbing.

4. Non-comedogenic SPF, every day. Exposure to UV rays over time can affect pore size and sebum production. Daily sun protection is part of prevention, even for those with blemish-prone skin. The Face Fluid SPF 30 and SPF 50 They have a light, fluid texture, designed to layer under makeup without feeling heavy.

5. Clay mask, once or twice a week. The clay has an absorbent effect on excess sebum: when applied as a mask to the T-zone, it helps reduce the amount of sebum that builds up in the pores, the main cause of the formation of new blackheads. Be careful when choosing, though: an overly harsh clay mask can dry out the skin and disrupt the skin barrier, and in response the skin may end up producing even more sebum. The Purifying Face Mask is formulated with clay balanced by Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, and Olive Oil: it absorbs excess sebum without compromising hydration.

💡 Skin First Tip You often read that steam or temperature changes "open and close the pores." That’s not the case: pore size does not depend on temperature. Steam can help loosen sebum before a professional cleansing treatment, but it does not "open" them. The same goes for cold water at the end of cleansing: it does not "close" them.

The most effective active ingredients against blackheads

Not all cosmetic actives work on blackheads in the same way. Some have a targeted, scientifically documented action that's worth knowing about.

• Salicylic Acid (BHA): it is the king of active ingredients against blackheads. It is a fat-soluble beta hydroxy acid, and this characteristic is its strength: because it is compatible with sebum, it can enter the pores and dissolve excess sebum inside them. Other exfoliating acids, such as AHAs (glycolic, mandelic), work on the surface. Salicylic acid works inside. It is effective both for prevention and treatment. You can find it in the Purifying Cleansing Mousse (at 2%), in the Skin Perfector (at 2%) and in the Blemish-Prone Skin Lotion.
• Niacinamide: it is a sebum-regulating active ingredient: it helps normalize sebum production, gradually reducing the appearance of enlarged pores. It also has an evening effect on the complexion, useful for those with residual post-inflammatory marks. The Booster Niacinamide + Azeloglycine combines niacinamide with azeloglycine, a stable form of azelaic acid with a purifying action.
• Retinol: stimulates cell turnover, helps normalize sebum secretion, and has an antioxidant action that counteracts the very oxidation process that gives blackheads their dark color. The Retinol Booster should only be used in the evening, because it can make the skin more sensitive to UV rays. It should be introduced gradually: start with three evenings a week on alternate days, and increase over time.
• Clay: it is not an active ingredient in the strict sense, but a substance with a specific action on blackheads: it absorbs excess sebum. It works in mask form, on the T-zone where blackheads are concentrated. The important thing is to choose a balanced formula that does not dry out the skin.

Dr. Maria Pia Priore's advice

The blackheads are one of those skin concerns that always seem to come back, even when you do everything right. My advice is not to expect an immediate solution. Skincare works over time, and results on blackheads show after weeks of consistency, not in three days.

If the situation doesn't improve with a well-designed routine, or if you have widespread, inflamed blemishes, see a dermatologist. Cosmetics can do a lot for prevention and appearance, but some forms of persistent blemishes need medical evaluation.

— Dr. Maria Pia Priore, pharmacist, cosmetologist, and founder of Skin First®

Maria Pia Priore

Founder di SKIN FIRST®, farmacista e cosmetologa

In conclusion

Blackheads don’t disappear overnight, and squeezing them won’t get rid of them. They need to be treated with patience, and with a skincare routine built around what your skin really needs: targeted cleansing, exfoliation with salicylic acid, and consistency over time. There are no products that remove blackheads in three days: there are products that, when used consistently, genuinely improve their appearance over time.

Skin doesn't ask for miracles. It asks for attention.