Facial exfoliation can therefore bring numerous benefits to your Skin
- keep pores clean by removing excess sebum;
- prevent acne breakouts and other impurities;
- even out your Skin’s tone and prevent the formation of skin blemishes;
- stimulate collagen synthesis
- improve your Skin’s ability to absorb active ingredients.
THREE TYPES OF EXFOLIATION: CHEMICAL, MECHANICAL, AND ENZYMATIC
Now that you understand the importance of exfoliation, you should know there isn’t just one way to exfoliate. Depending on the substances used, exfoliation can be mechanical (or physical), chemical, or enzymatic. Let’s go over the differences together:
- Chemical Exfoliation: chemical exfoliation is performed using acids, which thanks to their keratolytic action can break down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together and eliminate them, making way for new cells. It doesn’t have an immediate effect, but it acts more deeply, so its benefits last longer over time.
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Mechanical (or Physical) Exfoliation: Mechanical exfoliation uses products that, thanks to their abrasive action, remove dead cells from the surface of your Skin. The smoothing and brightening effect is instant.
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Enzymatic Exfoliation: Enzymatic exfoliation works very similarly to chemical exfoliation, but it uses enzymes that literally digest dead skin cells. This makes it much gentler.
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION WITH EXFOLIATING ACIDS
The ideal products for chemical exfoliation are acid-based toners and peels. Exfoliating acids are categorized into AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids), and PHAs (polyhydroxy acids). What are the differences?
- Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): These are water-soluble acids including glycolic, mandelic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acids. At low concentrations, they primarily have a hydrating effect, while at high concentrations they have a more potent exfoliating power. Click here to learn more
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Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): This term specifically refers to salicylic acid, which is oil-soluble, so it can penetrate pores, dissolve sebum, and clear hair follicles of any blockages. Click here to learn more (link to salicylic acid). Remember that the maximum concentration of salicylic acid allowed in cosmetics is 2%, so be sure to check the product label!
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Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs): These are two molecules: lactobionic acid and gluconolactone, which act like AHAs but are even gentler, and are known for both their hydrating and exfoliating properties.
WHICH EXFOLIATION METHOD TO CHOOSE
Now that you’ve uncovered all the secrets of exfoliating treatments and understand the importance of exfoliation, you’re probably wondering which method to use. We’re here to help!
There are several factors you need to take into consideration: your Skin type, its sensitivity level, and any specific skin concerns you need to watch for..
As we mentioned, chemical exfoliation is definitely the most effective method and one that delivers longer-lasting results, even if they aren’t immediate. It acts more deeply, which is why it provides the most benefits for oily, combination, and/or blemish-prone skin who need to keep their pores clean and regulate sebum production. That’s not all: if you suffer from acne you should absolutely avoid scrubs, because their mechanical action can spread inflammation across your entire face and do more harm than good!
If your your Skin is dry or sensitive, you can benefit from a gentler exfoliation using a scrub that can help you: remove dead skin cells to bring fresher, newer cells to the surface, stimulate circulation, and help the hydrating active ingredients in your subsequent skincare products penetrate more effectively.