Facial exfoliation can therefore bring numerous benefits to your skin
- keep pores clear by removing excess sebum;
- prevent the formation of acne and other impurities;
- even out skin tone and help prevent the formation of dark spots;
- stimulate collagen synthesis
- improve the skin's ability to absorb active ingredients.
THREE TYPES OF EXFOLIATION: CHEMICAL, MECHANICAL AND ENZYMATIC
Now that you understand the importance of exfoliation, you should know that there is not just one way to exfoliate. Depending on the ingredients used, exfoliation can in fact be mechanical (or physical), chemical, or enzymatic. Let's look at the differences together:
- Chemical exfoliation: chemical exfoliation is carried out with acids that, thanks to their keratolytic action, are able to break down the bonds that hold dead cells together and remove them, making room for new ones. It does not have an immediate effect but works more deeply, so the benefits last longer over time.
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Mechanical (or physical) exfoliation: mechanical exfoliation is carried out with ingredients that, thanks to their abrasive action, remove dead cells from the skin's surface. The effect of smoothness and radiance is immediate.
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Enzymatic exfoliation: enzymatic exfoliation works very similarly to chemical exfoliation but uses enzymes that literally digest dead cells. This makes it much gentler.
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION WITH EXFOLIATING ACIDS
The ideal products for chemical exfoliation are acid-based toners and peels. Exfoliating acids are divided into AHA, alpha hydroxy acids, BHA, beta hydroxy acids, and PHA, polyhydroxy acids. What are the differences?
- Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA): these are water-soluble acids such as glycolic, mandelic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid that at low concentrations have a mainly hydrating effect, while at higher concentrations they are more exfoliating. Click here to learn more
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Beta hydroxy acids (BHA): this term refers specifically to salicylic acid, which, being oil-soluble, is able to penetrate pores, dissolve sebum, and clear hair follicles of any blockages. Click here to learn more (link to salicylic acid). Remember that the maximum salicylic acid concentration allowed in cosmetics is 2%, so check the label!
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Polyhydroxy acids (PHA): these are two molecules, lactobionic acid and gluconolactone, which work like AHAs but in an even gentler way and are known for their hydrating as well as exfoliating action.
WHICH EXFOLIATION METHOD TO CHOOSE
Now that you've discovered all the secrets of exfoliating treatments and understood the importance of exfoliation, you may be wondering which method to choose. We're here to help!
There are several factors you need to take into account: your skin type, its level of sensitivity, and any skin concerns you need to pay attention to..
As we said, chemical exfoliation is definitely the most effective method and the one that delivers longer-lasting results, even if not immediately. It works more deeply, and for that reason the biggest benefits are for oily, combination and/or blemish-prone skin, which needs to keep pores clear and regulate sebum production. That's not all: if you suffer from acne, you should literally avoid scrubs because, precisely due to their mechanical action, they could spread inflammation across the entire face and do more harm than good!
If instead your skin is dry or sensitive, you can also benefit from a gentler exfoliation by using a scrub that can help you: remove dead cells, bringing the freshest ones to the surface; stimulate circulation; and help the hydrating actives in the products you apply afterward penetrate better.