Peptides: What They Are and Why They Are Used in Cosmetics

Everything you need to know

There are 3 types of peptides:

1. SIGNAL PEPTIDES: Generally speaking, these are peptides capable of stimulating collagen synthesis and/or reducing its breakdown;
2. ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES THAT MODULATE NEUROTRANSMITTERS: They reduce or prevent the transmission of nerve impulses that allow the muscle to contract, helping prevent or reduce wrinkles
3. PEPTIDES THAT CHELATE METALS: Through metal chelation, a certain beneficial effect is achieved.

There are peptides in cosmetics many of them, each with its own function and ability to act on different skin concerns: wrinkles, dark circles, bags, skin spots, facial redness.

It is the formulator's job, after thorough research, to choose which ones to include in the formula and how to create a certain synergy with other peptides or other active ingredients.

Peptides for facial skin

Which peptides are selected in SKIN FIRST® formulas?

1. PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5 (Syn®-Coll): A tripeptide that helps slow the skin aging process. It was designed to prevent wrinkle formation and reduce their appearance. It works through a dual action: first, it stimulates collagen synthesis by mimicking the mechanism of the TGF-β growth factor, a key element in collagen production. Second, it protects collagen from degradation by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Both activities work synergistically to maintain the skin's structural integrity. It also helps improve skin texture and refine enlarged pores.
2. PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-38 (Matrixyl Sinthe® ‘6): A tripeptide that stimulates the synthesis of the 6 main components of the skin matrix and the dermal-epidermal junction (collagen I, III, IV, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid and laminin 5), leading to a significant three-dimensional reduction in wrinkles and a smoothing of skin relief.
3. ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8 (Reproage®): Modulates microRNA-145 levels, which is involved in regulating epidermal differentiation. Through this mechanism of action, Reproage® can induce cellular reprogramming in the basal layer of the epidermis to extend its self-renewal capacity. This results in an improvement in the appearance of signs of aging and more radiant skin.

Bionimetic peptides and natural peptides: what is the difference?

As we have seen, there is a large number of peptides used in cosmetics. In particular, the so-called biomimetic peptides, that is, peptides synthetically created in the laboratory to imitate the action of natural peptides are used. Not surprisingly, the name has exactly this meaning: "bio" means "life" and "mimetic" means "that imitate." But if the ones used in skin products are biomimetic, what are natural peptides? As we have seen, peptides are substances made up of amino acid sequences and are chemical messengers, that is, molecules that send our body precise messages about the actions to be carried out; in particular, they are responsible for the production of collagen, elastin and keratin. As such, they are naturally present in our body, but also in nature in all living beings: for example, natural peptides can be extracted from certain plankton, or from moss. In addition, they can be found in many foods, from meat to shellfish to soy. In cosmetics, biomimetic peptides are more common, that is, synthetic peptides created in the laboratory, because they are easier to use in skin products.

Can peptides have side effects?

One of the concerns when we talk about products to apply on the skin is undoubtedly any issues related to application: can peptide-based products cause side effects? The answer is yes, although very rarely. In particular, side effects may include sensitivity, rashes and itching. In some very rare cases, peptides can cause allergies. To avoid unpleasant surprises, our advice is always to consult a dermatologist or another reliable source to make sure they are legitimate and safe products, and then try the new product on a small area of skin first to make sure they do not cause allergies.

Peptides in eye contour care: what is the benefit for this specific area?

If you have looked into the benefits of peptides around the web, you probably already know that they are one of the most popular methods for treating bags and dark circles.


This effectiveness is due to the fact that one of the culprits behind puffiness under the eyes and dark circles is the loss of collagen in the area, often due to age. And the action of peptides, as protein-like compounds made of amino acids, is precisely to stimulate our body to produce collagen, smoothing and repairing the skin. Not surprisingly, the SKIN FIRST eye contour contains peptides for a vasoprotective, decongesting, anti-aging and moisturizing action to help prevent and reduce dark circles and bags.

Viper peptide in cosmetics: fact or fiction?

A curiosity about peptides concerns the so-calledsnake venom peptide: is it a real ingredient or a made-up invention to sell more products? The truth is that the so-called viper peptide is indeed an ingredient used in cosmetics because of its properties linked to the inhibition of muscle contractions - in practice, the peptide, like venom, immobilizes the area on which it acts, thereby limiting wrinkle formation. However, it is not an extract of viper venom in the strict sense, but a synthetic compound created in the laboratory to mimic the action of the natural peptide produced by the reptile: while the latter contains a complex toxin, the one present in the venom produced by Wagler's pit viper or temple viper, the so-called viper venom used in cosmetics reproduces only the single peptide and its immobilizing action, without the other characteristics of the venom. It is therefore a synthetic version of the natural peptide contained in the venom - and not a substance extracted from viper serum - used to inhibit the muscle movements of our face and thus the formation of wrinkles.